Embroidery
Articles - Hedebo
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| Beth Gardner active in Santa Clara Valley
and Gavilan Hills chapters, wrote a series of columns on embroidery
for her chapter newsletters. The 2002 series highlighted
embroidery done with a sharp needle; 2003 features a world
tour of ethnic embroidery. She has graciously made the columns
available for all Region members to enjoy. All articles
are copyrighted by Beth and used by permission. Contact
for
questions or reprint permission. |
The Traveling Thread
© 2003
This month we travel to Denmark to investigate Hedebo (pronounced
Hay-ta-bo) embroidery. Hedebo is another form of cut and drawn
thread whitework. It began as decoration for peasant men’s
shirts, women’s collars and cuffs, and bedclothes. It originated
in a specific flatland region of Denmark between Copenhagen and
Roskilde known as the Heden, or heath. As with much embroidery,
the countryside flora suggested the floral motifs that were used
in the embroidery.
Herstory
There are a number of distinct forms of Hedebo embroidery, each
being popular during a specific timeframe and then declining in
significance while another form took precedence. The oldest form
dates back to the 1700’s and consists of flat, counted-thread
whitework embroidery of diamonds and stars on men’s and women’s
blouses. The next form was popular from about 1750-1800 and consisted
of drawn thread work where every second pair of horizontal and
vertical threads was withdrawn so that a grid remained. A whipping
stitch strengthened the network of remaining threads and the motifs
were embroidered on the network of remaining threads. This drawn
thread area was first bounded by one or more rows of chain stitch.
The next Hedebo form was popular from about 1820-1840 and consisted
of small areas of cutwork where most or all the threads were removed.
The edges of the cut areas were bound by the Hedebo buttonhole
stitch, a slightly different buttonhole stitch than what we commonly
do today. Connecting threads were attached to the buttonhole edge,
many times in arcs, and drawn thread fillings, somewhat like we
know in Hardanger, were embroidered over the connecting threads.
Around 1840 the fourth form of Hedebo became popular. It too
was a drawn thread technique but was influenced by Italian reticella
embroidery where needlelace motifs embellished the remaining drawn
thread network. Extravagant flat, counted-thread embroidered floral
motifs were added to soften the geometric needlelace motifs.
The final form of Hedebo is one that many of us associate with
Hedebo today. Rings of thread are wound around a couronne stick
(or pencil or knitting needle, depending on the size of the ring
desired). Hedebo buttonhole stitch (also known as knotted buttonhole
stitch) is worked all around the ring and then the ring is further
embellished with more Hedebo buttonhole stitch at intervals around
the ring. Finally, needlelace and picots may be worked on the outer
buttonhole stitches. When the embellishment is complete, the ring
is attached within an open area of cutwork.
Hedebo Technique
Hedebo is done on evenweave linen with linen or coton perlé thread,
size 8 or 12, depending on the linen count. Since this is historically
a whitework technique, the thread color is very close to that of
the linen. When doing a drawn thread technique, the outer area
may be bounded by two or three rows of very close chain stitch
or with Hedebo buttonhole stitch. When doing a cutwork technique,
the area is slashed, turned to the back, and bounded by Hedebo
buttonhole. When the cut area is secure, the excess fabric is trimmed
on the back close to the buttonhole stitching. The original row
of buttonhole stitching serves not only to bind the cut area but
as a foundation for adding bars and additional buttonhole stitching
which is then embellished with filling stitches.
Resources
Copyright © 2003 by
, used by permission.
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